Grandmother of that Grandmother...
Hemp has been the longest and most widely used fabric of the world and is the
friendliest fabric to Koreans. In particular, the climate and soil of Andong of
Gyeongbuk is the most suitable for hemp cultivation. People of ancient times
cultivated wild hemp around Nakdong River to produce the fabrics close to
today¡¯s Andong hemp.
Hemp was favored by Shinra¡¯s Flower of Youths. As remains of hemp fabrics are
found in old tombs, it is assumed that hemp has been worn since the time of
Shinra Empire.
Andong Hemp, certified to be served to Kings
In the early Chosun Dynasty, they were produced as bast fiber fabrics for
commoners. Their light-gold color and thin and delicate weaving became to be
recognized and bested silk and other fabrics. They were used not only for summer
wardrobes, but also for sables.
Since the mid-Chosun Dynasty, they have been produced and used for summer
wardrobes as equivalent to ramie fabrics. They were certified to be served to
the Palace instead of taxes as they were recognized as one of major local
specialties and were also popularly traded to China. Today, hemps have become
distant to our daily life due to the popularization of synthetic fabrics, but
they are still treasured and produced in Geumso-ri and Gogok-ri, Imha-myeon of
Andong, Namhae, Gangneng and Boseong.
What is so special about Andong Hemp?
Andong Hemp is
¡°Saengnaengi.¡± It is what makes it different fromother hemp.
What is
¡®Saengnaengi¡¯?
'Saengnaengi' (literally means born in raw) is distinguished from ¡®Iknaengi¡¯
(literally means born heated) by the difference in the process of yarning.
¡°Saengnaengi,¡± the Core of Andong Hemp
Saengnaengi = Unnecessary peeling peeled before yarning.
Iknaengi = Peeling peeled in lye after yarning.
Saengnaengi peels off the unnecessary peeling before yarning the hemp, while
Iknaengi peels off the peeling after yarning the hemp and boiling them in lye.
Another Core, 'Devotion'
'Saengnaengi¡¯ requires much more labor than 'Iknaengi.'
The reason is that Saengnaengi should be rolled on the knees when yarning.
Yarning is the base of well-structured hemp fabrics, so Andong ladies rolled and
rolled the hemp until their knees became bruised and hardened.
'Until the white knees became bruised'
Although Saengnaengi requires more labor in weaving than Iknaengi, they produce
more high-quality hemp fabrics.
Generally 8 to 9 rowed fabrics are weaved with Saengnaengi and sometimes more
delicate 10-rowed fabrics are produced with them.
Fine-looking Andong hemp means that they have more ¡®Saengnaengi¡¯ that weaves
thin, straight and fine hemp.
High-quality hemp of Andong, ¡®Saengnaengi¡¯ technique and the close devotion
creates fine-looking Andong Hemp Fabrics.
It is what you wear to the ¡®afterlife¡¯ as you could not wear enough in ¡®present
life.¡¯
Andong Hemp is ¡®Saengnaengi¡¯ weaved with the inner peel of the hemp. Ordinary
hemp (Iknaengi) is chemically-processed and weaved with the outer peel to be
different from the superior-quality of Andong Hemp.
Thread by thread, Andongpo is created by the devotion, effort and tears of
Andong ladies.
Devotedly and delicately hand-woven in silent and regulated space by Andong
ladies, Andong hemp is what you wear to the ¡®afterlife¡¯ as you could not wear
enough in ¡®present life.¡¯
"Hoo~ It¡¯s So Hot~~"
Nothing would be better to blow away the severe hotness in the middle of summer.
It is not enough to stay by the cooler or fans to kill the mid-summer¡¯s intense
heat.
You wish to take off the one last layer of clothe, but you can¡¯t always do as
you wish.
It will be best to have clothes that can guarantee the sophisticated and
dignified looks and kill the hotness of summer.
Well-ventilated to allow the subtlest breeze with fine beautifully colored
yarns¡¦
Cool and rough texture to beat the hotness of summer¡¦
There are the characteristics of the best summer fabric, Andong Hemp.
Since the old times, ramie and hemp fabrics have been beloved as summer fabrics.
Hemp, in particular, absorbs and dries perspiration fast, ventilates well and
conducts large amount of heat to be perfect for cooling the hot summer.
Fabric that is Closest to the Nature
Not only that, but they have high durability against friction and long
life-span. They are highly resistant to water to not be deformed or damaged by
washing. They will not be deformed although you wear it for a long time.
They will not deteriorate or be worm-eaten even if they are worn for 1,000
years.
As they are pollution-free natural fabric made devotedly in natural state, they
are the closest to the Nature among the many kinds of fabrics.
¡¡
Copyright 2002 INVIL CENTRAL COUNCIL. All rights reserved.
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